Amsterdam Rainy Day: Skip the Museum, Find the Passages

When it rains in Amsterdam (and it will), 90% of tourists have the same idea: "Let's go to the Rijksmuseum." The result? A crowd swapping one queue for another.

Here is a different plan: Amsterdam's covered passages. These are 400-year-old arcades, hidden markets, and walkways where you can stay dry, browse for hours, and see parts of the city most tourists never find.

1. Oudemanhuispoort — The Book Passage

Between Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Kloveniersburgwal

This is Amsterdam's best-kept rainy day secret. The Oudemanhuispoort is a covered arcade dating back to the early 1600s, originally built as an almshouse for elderly men ("Oudemanhuispoort" literally means "Old Man's House Gate").

What you'll find:

• A daily second-hand book market (since 1886)
• Stalls selling academic works, rare editions, prints, and sheet music
• A vaulted ceiling and quiet courtyard in the middle

The Story: Vincent van Gogh is said to have bought books here—sometimes paying with his portraits when he couldn't afford cash. Today, the passage is part of the University of Amsterdam, but the booksellers remain.

Hours: Open daily, though individual stalls vary. Best visited mid-morning.

2. Beurspassage — The Mosaic Ceiling

Between Damrak and Nieuwendijk

This is the most visually stunning passage in Amsterdam. Walk through, look up, and you'll see 450 square meters of glass mosaic covering the entire ceiling.

What you'll see:

• Fish, bicycle gears, and a floating Vincent van Gogh ear (yes, really)
• Art Deco mirrors and handmade stained glass lamps
• The "Amsterdam Oersoep" (primordial soup) artwork paying tribute to the canals

The mosaic was installed in 2022 and transforms what was once a bland shopping corridor into an underground gallery. It connects Nieuwendijk (the shopping street) to Damrak, so you can easily combine it with a walk through the center.

Tip: Visit after sunset when the internal lighting makes the mosaics glow.

3. IJpassage — The Station Shelter

Inside Amsterdam Centraal

You probably walked through this without realizing it. The IJpassage is the underground corridor running beneath Amsterdam Central Station, connecting the city side to the IJ waterfront and ferries.

Why it counts:

• Fully covered and heated
• Shops, cafés, and bakeries line the walls
• Seating areas with power sockets (rare in Amsterdam)

On a rainy day when you arrive by train, don't rush outside. Grab a coffee, charge your phone, and wait out the worst of the shower before heading to the free ferry.

4. Looier Antiek Centrum — The Indoor Treasure Hunt

Elandsgracht 109 (Jordaan)

If you like antiques, vintage finds, and getting happily lost, Looier is your covered passage. This indoor antique market has 75+ dealers under one roof.

What you'll find:

• Antique jewelry and silverware
• Vintage furniture and Dutch ceramics
• Old maps, prints, and curiosities
• A café in the center

Unlike a museum, you can touch (almost) everything. Prices range from €5 trinkets to €5,000 statement pieces.

Hours: Sat–Wed 11:00–17:00 (closed Thu–Fri)

Visit Looier's website →

5. Foodhallen — The Covered Dining Hall

Bellamyplein 51 (Amsterdam West)

Not a passage in the historic sense, but if you're soaked and hungry, Foodhallen solves both problems. This indoor food market is set inside a former tram depot and features 20+ food stalls.

What to eat:

• Bao buns, Vietnamese pho, tacos
• Dutch bitterballen and cheese
• Craft beer and cocktails

The vaulted ceiling and industrial architecture make it feel like an Amsterdam market, not a food court. Busy on weekends, quieter on weekday afternoons.

The Rainy Day Route (Stay Dry for 3 Hours)

Here is a walking route that keeps you mostly under cover:

1. Start at Central Station → IJpassage (coffee + warm up)
2. Walk to Beurspassage (5 min via Damrak, some rain)
3. Cross Nieuwendijk → Oudemanhuispoort (10 min, covered sections)
4. Browse the book market (30+ min)
5. Walk to Looier (15 min, through Jordaan — bring umbrella)
6. End at a brown café (Café Papeneiland is 5 min away)

Total: ~3 hours of mostly-dry exploring.

Hear the stories as you walk. Our audio guide covers these passages and dozens of other spots across the city. When you duck into the Oudemanhuispoort, we'll tell you the full Van Gogh story. Get your audio guide →

What About the Begijnhof?

You may have heard of the Begijnhof—the hidden courtyard accessed through a secret door. It's worth visiting, but it's not covered. On a rainy day, you'll still get wet walking the courtyard. Save it for dryer weather or a quick dash.

Rain Gear Reality Check

If you're going to live like an Amsterdammer, accept that you'll get a little wet. But a good rain jacket (locals don't use umbrellas much—they blow inside out) and waterproof shoes will let you enjoy the city in any weather.

The covered passages are a bonus, not a prison. Duck in, explore, and when the sun comes out, continue your walk.